Do you ever dream about what your yard could look like some day? As you look through garden catalogs filled with beautiful trees, shrubs, flowers and pictures of beautifully landscaped yards--complete with ponds and garden sculptures--the choices seem endless. Before ordering hundreds of plants or giving up because you cannot decide what you really want, let us take a closer look at Xeriscaping your yard.
Generally, people are looking to create an attractive, peaceful and private environment. So take a look at your yard, ideally how would you like it to look. What features are you looking for? How will you use each space? When you start to design your Xeriscape yard, you need to keep a few things in mind. You are looking to create a sustainable landscape, which is attractive, is balance with your local climate and requires minimal added resources, especially water.
Another thing to consider is your long-term and short-term goals. Your short-term goals may include creating your Ideal Yard in sections, or keeping in mind that any new plantings will need extra water to get them started. A long-term goal might be to have a sustainable landscape designed to your maintenance needs.
Your Xeriscape design begins by considering many different factors. Part of this process will include answering some of the following questions:
• How would you like to use the space that you have?
• What conditions currently exist, that you need to address? For instance, existing trees, large rocks or boulders, local or homeowner association covenants.
• What is your budget? Are you looking at doing all or part of the work yourself?
• What is your timeline for completing the project? Will it be completed as a series of smaller projects over a number of years?
• What are you looking for as regards to maintenance? Do you want a high or low maintenance yard? Or something in between?
• Ultimately, what are you looking to create?
Remember, a professional landscape designer / contractor can help with the design and construction process, and the local nursery with plant selection.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Monday, February 15, 2010
English Style Xeriscape Gardens
Here in Northern Arizona Winter is finally slowly showing signs of Spring. January was harsh here. We had over 5 feet of snow fall within one week through a series of storms. That resulted in weeks of shoveling for me, along with the shoveling there was the job of clearing the weight off of roofs. My one client who has a house that was built in 1917 had the support beam on the porch break because of the weight of the snow.
I’ve talked too many here in Flagstaff and they are all talking about Spring. So following that consensus, let’s talk about Gardens. I would like to start the discussion by looking at English Style Xeriscape Gardens.
First let’s briefly describe what Xeriscape Landscape is. The concept was originally developed by a special task force in Colorado, which was comprised of the Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado, Denver Water Department and Colorado State University. The origins of the word Xeriscape is from the Greek word ‘Xeros’, which means ‘Dry’.
Xeriscape landscapes are landscapes that use water-efficient plants or landscapes that use little supplemental water. The principles in Xeriscaping are good horticultural practices that apply to the environment of your particular region. Therefore, some of the benefits of Xeriscaping include having beautiful landscapes that use water-efficient plants.
A traditional English Garden has always been known for its lush green gardens and lawns, with colorful flowers built into a relaxing outdoor hideaway. The lush plant life, secluded sitting areas and meandering walkways can create the romantic elements to English Gardens.
So now the question is how do you combine the principles of Xeriscape with the beauty of an English Garden?
The answer lies in combining the concepts of an English Garden while incorporating the principles of Xeriscape landscaping.
The main components of an English Garden are:
• Winding Paths
• Sitting areas
• Colorful Plants in irregular shaped beds
• Garden Arbors & Potted Plants
• Wildlife Habitats & Ponds
• Rustic Fences or Stone Walls
• Gazebos & Bridges
All of these components can be incorporated into any landscape design. Then by adding the principles of Xeriscape landscaping, you end up with an English style Garden that uses native plants to create that secret hideaway. That can be enjoyed by all.
So how does this look and is it feasible. Let’s look at an example. Since I live in Northern Arizona, let’s use that as the location. Most yards are of modest size and usually have cedar fences.
The first component is the secluded sitting area. So let’s replace the oak, elm or maple tree with a grove of Aspens in semi-circular pattern and hidden within this grove we add a garden bench or even a couple of redwood chairs with table. This area is situated that you can view the rest of the garden.
Now around this area let’s design a number of flower beds of various sizes and shapes. So let’s place one bed near the house. In this bed we’ll have a trellis with Old Blush, Cecile Brunner or Ivy. In front of that we’ll replace the typical English perennials with Purple Coneflower, Winecup, Purple Loosestrife, Oxeye Daisy, Yarrow, Iris, Russian sage, yellow or red-and-yellow Columbine.
Now in the center of the yard, we’ll add a small lawn that surrounds another flower bed that has a lawn statue with a rustic appearance. In this flower bed let’s plant some annuals such as bachelor button, cosmos, Texas bluebells, trailing lantana, poppies and larkspur. All are planted from seed except lantana and bluebells, which are usually started from transplants.
Now off to the far side we’ll create a wildlife habitat. So let’s start with another grove of Aspen, no Mountain Ash. In the shadows of the trees, we’ll add a final flower bed. In this bed we’ll add a birdbath. Let’s surround the birdbath a flowering groundcover and along the edges we’ll add a couple of flowering bushes. We’ll then add a couple of birdfeeders and maybe a birdhouse.
We have now created an English Style Xeriscape Garden in Northern Arizona.
If you’re starting from scratch, you will have a beautiful garden within a few years.
I’ve talked too many here in Flagstaff and they are all talking about Spring. So following that consensus, let’s talk about Gardens. I would like to start the discussion by looking at English Style Xeriscape Gardens.
First let’s briefly describe what Xeriscape Landscape is. The concept was originally developed by a special task force in Colorado, which was comprised of the Associated Landscape Contractors of Colorado, Denver Water Department and Colorado State University. The origins of the word Xeriscape is from the Greek word ‘Xeros’, which means ‘Dry’.
Xeriscape landscapes are landscapes that use water-efficient plants or landscapes that use little supplemental water. The principles in Xeriscaping are good horticultural practices that apply to the environment of your particular region. Therefore, some of the benefits of Xeriscaping include having beautiful landscapes that use water-efficient plants.
A traditional English Garden has always been known for its lush green gardens and lawns, with colorful flowers built into a relaxing outdoor hideaway. The lush plant life, secluded sitting areas and meandering walkways can create the romantic elements to English Gardens.
So now the question is how do you combine the principles of Xeriscape with the beauty of an English Garden?
The answer lies in combining the concepts of an English Garden while incorporating the principles of Xeriscape landscaping.
The main components of an English Garden are:
• Winding Paths
• Sitting areas
• Colorful Plants in irregular shaped beds
• Garden Arbors & Potted Plants
• Wildlife Habitats & Ponds
• Rustic Fences or Stone Walls
• Gazebos & Bridges
All of these components can be incorporated into any landscape design. Then by adding the principles of Xeriscape landscaping, you end up with an English style Garden that uses native plants to create that secret hideaway. That can be enjoyed by all.
So how does this look and is it feasible. Let’s look at an example. Since I live in Northern Arizona, let’s use that as the location. Most yards are of modest size and usually have cedar fences.
The first component is the secluded sitting area. So let’s replace the oak, elm or maple tree with a grove of Aspens in semi-circular pattern and hidden within this grove we add a garden bench or even a couple of redwood chairs with table. This area is situated that you can view the rest of the garden.
Now around this area let’s design a number of flower beds of various sizes and shapes. So let’s place one bed near the house. In this bed we’ll have a trellis with Old Blush, Cecile Brunner or Ivy. In front of that we’ll replace the typical English perennials with Purple Coneflower, Winecup, Purple Loosestrife, Oxeye Daisy, Yarrow, Iris, Russian sage, yellow or red-and-yellow Columbine.
Now in the center of the yard, we’ll add a small lawn that surrounds another flower bed that has a lawn statue with a rustic appearance. In this flower bed let’s plant some annuals such as bachelor button, cosmos, Texas bluebells, trailing lantana, poppies and larkspur. All are planted from seed except lantana and bluebells, which are usually started from transplants.
Now off to the far side we’ll create a wildlife habitat. So let’s start with another grove of Aspen, no Mountain Ash. In the shadows of the trees, we’ll add a final flower bed. In this bed we’ll add a birdbath. Let’s surround the birdbath a flowering groundcover and along the edges we’ll add a couple of flowering bushes. We’ll then add a couple of birdfeeders and maybe a birdhouse.
We have now created an English Style Xeriscape Garden in Northern Arizona.
If you’re starting from scratch, you will have a beautiful garden within a few years.
Friday, January 15, 2010
No Cost Home Energy Savers
We learned from our teachers that energy is neither created nor destroyed. But, this doesn’t mean that it is FREE. If your energy bills are little over what you have allocated in your monthly household budget, there are things that you can do.
You must learn How to Conserve Energy.
There are several things that can be done to significantly lower your energy bills. All you need are common sense and sensitivity to the things you can change.
With No Cost Home Energy Savers, you can cut down your energy bills without buying any energy saving devices. Here are some ways to do it:
•Turn off stereos, televisions, and lights when you leave the room or if you do not need them
Surely, some of us are aware that turning off appliances when not using them is important, but many of us still neglect to practice this, knowing that it only costs a small amount. Yes, it may be small amount for one appliance, but multiply that by the number of appliances you have in your home, you could be unwisely spending hundreds of dollars.
•Turn off computer monitor when not in use
Just like your television, your computer monitor consumes energy. And like your television, you may want to turn it off while away from your computer.
•Maximize the use of your washing machine or dishwasher
Fully load your washing machine and dishwashers. Take note that you consume the same power regardless of the quantity of your loads. In the case when you have a few dishes to wash; you can always wash and dry them by hand. This way, you have saved not only energy but also water and dish washing soap. This also goes with few pieces of clothes you need to wash. Another energy saver is the Front Load Washing Machine. Using this will save you 50% on water and 50% on energy. You may also want to air dry your dishes as well as your clothes.
•Use cold water when washing your clothes
Washing machines consume most of their energy heating the water that will be used.
•Refrain from using your microwave to thaw frozen meat
If you are in the practice removing frozen meat from the freezer and thawing it in your microwave, you are wasting a lot of money. Save money and energy by removing frozen meat hours before you plan to cook it. You can immerse it in warm water to speed up the thawing process.
•Do not put hot or warm food on the refrigerator
Let them cool down first. The refrigerator will consume a lot of power in order to cool down these hot foods.
•Do not use second refrigerator
If you can squeeze all your food into one refrigerator, do so. A second refrigerator doubles your energy consumption.
•Lower the thermostat by as much as 7 degrees when not at home or while sleeping
This will keep your energy consumption minimized. Remember that you don’t need super cool air or extremely hot room while you are away or while you are sleeping.
Making sure that you maximize your efforts you will keep your energy bills manageable.
You must learn How to Conserve Energy.
There are several things that can be done to significantly lower your energy bills. All you need are common sense and sensitivity to the things you can change.
With No Cost Home Energy Savers, you can cut down your energy bills without buying any energy saving devices. Here are some ways to do it:
•Turn off stereos, televisions, and lights when you leave the room or if you do not need them
Surely, some of us are aware that turning off appliances when not using them is important, but many of us still neglect to practice this, knowing that it only costs a small amount. Yes, it may be small amount for one appliance, but multiply that by the number of appliances you have in your home, you could be unwisely spending hundreds of dollars.
•Turn off computer monitor when not in use
Just like your television, your computer monitor consumes energy. And like your television, you may want to turn it off while away from your computer.
•Maximize the use of your washing machine or dishwasher
Fully load your washing machine and dishwashers. Take note that you consume the same power regardless of the quantity of your loads. In the case when you have a few dishes to wash; you can always wash and dry them by hand. This way, you have saved not only energy but also water and dish washing soap. This also goes with few pieces of clothes you need to wash. Another energy saver is the Front Load Washing Machine. Using this will save you 50% on water and 50% on energy. You may also want to air dry your dishes as well as your clothes.
•Use cold water when washing your clothes
Washing machines consume most of their energy heating the water that will be used.
•Refrain from using your microwave to thaw frozen meat
If you are in the practice removing frozen meat from the freezer and thawing it in your microwave, you are wasting a lot of money. Save money and energy by removing frozen meat hours before you plan to cook it. You can immerse it in warm water to speed up the thawing process.
•Do not put hot or warm food on the refrigerator
Let them cool down first. The refrigerator will consume a lot of power in order to cool down these hot foods.
•Do not use second refrigerator
If you can squeeze all your food into one refrigerator, do so. A second refrigerator doubles your energy consumption.
•Lower the thermostat by as much as 7 degrees when not at home or while sleeping
This will keep your energy consumption minimized. Remember that you don’t need super cool air or extremely hot room while you are away or while you are sleeping.
Making sure that you maximize your efforts you will keep your energy bills manageable.
Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Weather-Proofing
Happy Holidays! Christmas has passed for another year. This is one of my favorite Holidays. And this one was especially significant. We have a young man staying with us, who’s had it rough. This year he was able to experience his first true Christmas in a long time, if ever. You see ln our house, we celebrate the Solstice, Christmas Eve and then Christmas Day. The real joy came by watching his eyes light up, while he opened his presents. Just being able to experience that was priceless!
Last time, we left off at Weather-Proofing. Many would think why bother now there is snow on the ground or not. I read an article this week saying that parts of Texas had a White Christmas, while many in the Upper Mid-West had a Green Christmas. Either way Weather-Proofing is important. As I mentioned before, you are checking for Holes in your house’s protective blanket.
Sealing Air Leaks
Warm air leaks into your home during the summer and out of your home during the winter, this can waste a lot of your Energy Dollars, not to mention the Environment. So one of the quickest Dollar-Saving and Energy-Saving tasks you can perform is to caulk, seal, and Weather-Strip all seams, cracks, and openings to the outside. You can save 10% or more on your energy bill by reducing the air leaks in your home.
Sources of Air Leaks in Your Home
You’re thinking to yourself, where do I start? So I’ve provided a list of the typical problem areas around the home. So let’s start here:
• Dropped ceiling (Combined 31% Heat Loss with Floors & Walls)
• Water heater and furnace flues (4% Heat Loss)
• Window frames (10% Heat Loss)
• Recessed light (Combined 31% Heat Loss with Floors & Walls)
• All ducts (15% Heat Loss)
• Electrical outlets and switches (2% Heat Loss)
• Attic entrance(Combined 31% Heat Loss with Floors & Walls)
• Door frames (11% Heat Loss)
• Plumbing and utility access (13% Heat Loss)
• Sill plates (Combined 31% Heat Loss with Ceilings & Walls)
• Chimney flashing (14% Heat Loss)
Air infiltrates into and out of your home through every hole, nook, and cranny. About one-third of this air is coming through openings in your ceilings, walls, and floors.
Tips for Finding and Sealing Air Leaks
First, we need to test your home for air tightness. So on a windy day, hold a lit Incense Stick (a lit Candle works, too) next to your windows, doors, electrical boxes, plumbing fixtures, electrical outlets, ceiling fixtures, attic hatches, and other locations where there is a possible air path to the outside. So you’re checking along Exterior Walls and Ceilings. If the smoke stream travels horizontally, you have located an air leak that may need caulking, sealing, or weather-stripping. Another good indication there is a Draft is you a Cold Spot or Cold Draft in one location in a room. As you are going along, take notes of areas that need attention.
Insulating and Sealing Air Leaks
Now that you’ve found the problem areas, let’s look at ways to eliminate or at the very least reduce the Drafts.
• Caulk and weather-strip doors and windows that leak air.
There are many types of Weather-Stripping available. Choose the best alternative for your situation. In most cases, you can purchase a couple of rolls of foam Weather-Stripping in ¼” & ½” thicknesses. This Weather-Stripping is still the most versatile, because it forms around the door or window to give a tight seal when closed.
• Caulk and seal air leaks where plumbing, ducting, or where electrical wiring penetrates through exterior walls, floors, ceilings, and soffits.
Depending on the size of the gap, caulk works well for smaller gaps, while spray foam insulation (found in spray cans) works for larger gaps. Just fill the gap and let dry.
• Install rubber gaskets behind outlet and switch plates on exterior walls.
• In the attic look for dirty spots in your insulation, which often indicate holes, where air leaks into and out of your house.
You can seal the holes by stapling sheets of plastic over the holes and caulking the edges of the plastic. Just remember don’t cover-up vent openings, because these are necessary for air circulation.
• Install storm windows over single-pane windows or replace them with double-pane windows.
Okay, you’re thinking my single-pane windows don’t have storm windows. Mine certainly didn’t. And the plastic film sold for covering windows is pain to use, between the sticky tape that never really comes off and who can get the plastic attached right the first time. Not to mention the Expense!
If you have single glazed windows, and you simply can't afford to upgrade to double glazed windows, then here's a simple and inexpensive tip that can help: Cover your windows with Bubble Wrap.
OK, it sounds silly, but it really does work. It lets light in, though you cannot see through the windows properly (same for the plastic film), but it will reduce heat loss through the window by about 45%. That's a very significant amount!
The idea is simple: Cut a sheet of Bubble Wrap to fit the window exactly, spray it gently with plain water, and stick it on to the window. It should stay there. And when you remove it there isn't any difficult mess to clean up and the Bubble Wrap can be used again!
You save money by retaining heat and the environment saves by having less demand on its resources!
• When the fireplace is not in use, keep the flue damper tightly closed.
A chimney is designed specifically for smoke to escape, so until you close it, warm air escapes—24 hours a day!
That’s it. This whole process will take about an afternoon to perform. The neat thing is that most of these steps only have to be done once.
Well that’s covers my ‘Winter Check List’. Again Happy New Year!
Last time, we left off at Weather-Proofing. Many would think why bother now there is snow on the ground or not. I read an article this week saying that parts of Texas had a White Christmas, while many in the Upper Mid-West had a Green Christmas. Either way Weather-Proofing is important. As I mentioned before, you are checking for Holes in your house’s protective blanket.
Sealing Air Leaks
Warm air leaks into your home during the summer and out of your home during the winter, this can waste a lot of your Energy Dollars, not to mention the Environment. So one of the quickest Dollar-Saving and Energy-Saving tasks you can perform is to caulk, seal, and Weather-Strip all seams, cracks, and openings to the outside. You can save 10% or more on your energy bill by reducing the air leaks in your home.
Sources of Air Leaks in Your Home
You’re thinking to yourself, where do I start? So I’ve provided a list of the typical problem areas around the home. So let’s start here:
• Dropped ceiling (Combined 31% Heat Loss with Floors & Walls)
• Water heater and furnace flues (4% Heat Loss)
• Window frames (10% Heat Loss)
• Recessed light (Combined 31% Heat Loss with Floors & Walls)
• All ducts (15% Heat Loss)
• Electrical outlets and switches (2% Heat Loss)
• Attic entrance(Combined 31% Heat Loss with Floors & Walls)
• Door frames (11% Heat Loss)
• Plumbing and utility access (13% Heat Loss)
• Sill plates (Combined 31% Heat Loss with Ceilings & Walls)
• Chimney flashing (14% Heat Loss)
Air infiltrates into and out of your home through every hole, nook, and cranny. About one-third of this air is coming through openings in your ceilings, walls, and floors.
Tips for Finding and Sealing Air Leaks
First, we need to test your home for air tightness. So on a windy day, hold a lit Incense Stick (a lit Candle works, too) next to your windows, doors, electrical boxes, plumbing fixtures, electrical outlets, ceiling fixtures, attic hatches, and other locations where there is a possible air path to the outside. So you’re checking along Exterior Walls and Ceilings. If the smoke stream travels horizontally, you have located an air leak that may need caulking, sealing, or weather-stripping. Another good indication there is a Draft is you a Cold Spot or Cold Draft in one location in a room. As you are going along, take notes of areas that need attention.
Insulating and Sealing Air Leaks
Now that you’ve found the problem areas, let’s look at ways to eliminate or at the very least reduce the Drafts.
• Caulk and weather-strip doors and windows that leak air.
There are many types of Weather-Stripping available. Choose the best alternative for your situation. In most cases, you can purchase a couple of rolls of foam Weather-Stripping in ¼” & ½” thicknesses. This Weather-Stripping is still the most versatile, because it forms around the door or window to give a tight seal when closed.
• Caulk and seal air leaks where plumbing, ducting, or where electrical wiring penetrates through exterior walls, floors, ceilings, and soffits.
Depending on the size of the gap, caulk works well for smaller gaps, while spray foam insulation (found in spray cans) works for larger gaps. Just fill the gap and let dry.
• Install rubber gaskets behind outlet and switch plates on exterior walls.
• In the attic look for dirty spots in your insulation, which often indicate holes, where air leaks into and out of your house.
You can seal the holes by stapling sheets of plastic over the holes and caulking the edges of the plastic. Just remember don’t cover-up vent openings, because these are necessary for air circulation.
• Install storm windows over single-pane windows or replace them with double-pane windows.
Okay, you’re thinking my single-pane windows don’t have storm windows. Mine certainly didn’t. And the plastic film sold for covering windows is pain to use, between the sticky tape that never really comes off and who can get the plastic attached right the first time. Not to mention the Expense!
If you have single glazed windows, and you simply can't afford to upgrade to double glazed windows, then here's a simple and inexpensive tip that can help: Cover your windows with Bubble Wrap.
OK, it sounds silly, but it really does work. It lets light in, though you cannot see through the windows properly (same for the plastic film), but it will reduce heat loss through the window by about 45%. That's a very significant amount!
The idea is simple: Cut a sheet of Bubble Wrap to fit the window exactly, spray it gently with plain water, and stick it on to the window. It should stay there. And when you remove it there isn't any difficult mess to clean up and the Bubble Wrap can be used again!
You save money by retaining heat and the environment saves by having less demand on its resources!
• When the fireplace is not in use, keep the flue damper tightly closed.
A chimney is designed specifically for smoke to escape, so until you close it, warm air escapes—24 hours a day!
That’s it. This whole process will take about an afternoon to perform. The neat thing is that most of these steps only have to be done once.
Well that’s covers my ‘Winter Check List’. Again Happy New Year!
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Snow!!!
Snow! Snow! and More Snow!
Last week, we got buried here, 26 - 30 inches depending on where you lived around Flagstaff. I spend last week moving snow. First, our driveway, then the roof (more on that later), then onto the Doctor's properties. 5 out of 6 days, the sixth day I spent driving in it.
So this week, I'm going to deviate somewhat from what we've been discussing. I want to talk about Snow Removal. The reason for bringing this up is that we currently have a young man staying with us and he's been helping out with all the SNOW! And he's been a Great! help. But after watching him for a few minutes, I realized that he was going to end up with a Hernia or injure his back.
Snow Removal is extremely labor intensive! You can severely injure yourself while shoveling Snow. So I would like to offer a few suggestions.
- Use a Shovel that's Appropriate for the Job
What I'm talking about here is don't use a shovel that too big for you to handle. If you're just clearing a few inches from a sidewalk or driveway, the size of the shovel doesn't really matter a whole lot. But if you're trying to remove a lot of Wet Heavy, then the size of the shovel does matter. Choose a smaller, sturdy Shovel, this will enable you to move smaller amounts that will weigh less.
- Take Breaks Often!
Most people want to just get done as fast as possible. The danger here is that the longer you're at it the more chance there is for injury. So drink plenty of water and when you start to get tired (hot & sweaty is a good indicator), that a break! Even just a few minutes will be enough to rejuvenate you.
- Hire the Kid Down the Street
If the task seems too large, then have the kid, who is wondering around, usually carrying a shovel, help out. Usually for a few dollars and maybe some Hot Chocolate, they are more than willing to help out. Remember, kids automatically take breaks has they get tired.
- Keep an Eye on Your Roof
As I mentioned earlier, we spent time clearing our Roof. It was just the north side, because I noticed, when I was finishing caulking the house to prime it, that we have a bad section of Roof. But you are going to want to watch for potential Ice Dams. Ice Dams develop when the heat escaping from the attic melts the bottom layer of snow and then it re-freezes. This prevents the rest of the melting snow from falling off the Roof. The problem that arises is that this water can end up inside the house. So the easiest way to prevent this is to remove the few feet of snow from the edge of the Roof. This is done with a Roof Rake.
- If You're not Comfortable Doing the Work Hire Someone
If at any point, you not comfortable doing a particular Snow Removal task, then it must easier to just hire someone else to do the job.
I hope that you find these Tips helpful. Let's all have a save Winter season. Next week, I'll return to the topic of Weatherization.
Last week, we got buried here, 26 - 30 inches depending on where you lived around Flagstaff. I spend last week moving snow. First, our driveway, then the roof (more on that later), then onto the Doctor's properties. 5 out of 6 days, the sixth day I spent driving in it.
So this week, I'm going to deviate somewhat from what we've been discussing. I want to talk about Snow Removal. The reason for bringing this up is that we currently have a young man staying with us and he's been helping out with all the SNOW! And he's been a Great! help. But after watching him for a few minutes, I realized that he was going to end up with a Hernia or injure his back.
Snow Removal is extremely labor intensive! You can severely injure yourself while shoveling Snow. So I would like to offer a few suggestions.
- Use a Shovel that's Appropriate for the Job
What I'm talking about here is don't use a shovel that too big for you to handle. If you're just clearing a few inches from a sidewalk or driveway, the size of the shovel doesn't really matter a whole lot. But if you're trying to remove a lot of Wet Heavy, then the size of the shovel does matter. Choose a smaller, sturdy Shovel, this will enable you to move smaller amounts that will weigh less.
- Take Breaks Often!
Most people want to just get done as fast as possible. The danger here is that the longer you're at it the more chance there is for injury. So drink plenty of water and when you start to get tired (hot & sweaty is a good indicator), that a break! Even just a few minutes will be enough to rejuvenate you.
- Hire the Kid Down the Street
If the task seems too large, then have the kid, who is wondering around, usually carrying a shovel, help out. Usually for a few dollars and maybe some Hot Chocolate, they are more than willing to help out. Remember, kids automatically take breaks has they get tired.
- Keep an Eye on Your Roof
As I mentioned earlier, we spent time clearing our Roof. It was just the north side, because I noticed, when I was finishing caulking the house to prime it, that we have a bad section of Roof. But you are going to want to watch for potential Ice Dams. Ice Dams develop when the heat escaping from the attic melts the bottom layer of snow and then it re-freezes. This prevents the rest of the melting snow from falling off the Roof. The problem that arises is that this water can end up inside the house. So the easiest way to prevent this is to remove the few feet of snow from the edge of the Roof. This is done with a Roof Rake.
- If You're not Comfortable Doing the Work Hire Someone
If at any point, you not comfortable doing a particular Snow Removal task, then it must easier to just hire someone else to do the job.
I hope that you find these Tips helpful. Let's all have a save Winter season. Next week, I'll return to the topic of Weatherization.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Flushing Your Hot Water Heater
Happy Belated Thanksgiving!
We spent a wonderful day with family. Turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes and football. I love being reminded to grateful for everything I have in my life.
Last time, I posted my 'Winter Check List'. This week, let’s look closer at Flushing Your Hot Water Heater. As I mentioned last time, this appliance is often ignored until something goes wrong. The way a HW Heater works is simple. Cold water enters the tank and is heated and then exits the tank. The incoming water contains sediment, which is simply any solid material that isn’t dissolved in the water. Sediment can be sand or other grit. This sediment (depending on the size) will settle to the bottom of the tank or come out the faucet.
Anyway, small accumulations of sediment are not a serious problem. However, through neglect the depth of the sediment can start: 1) to interfere with the function of the drain valve, 2) increase the amount of dissolved minerals in the hot water, and 3) even affect the efficiency of the heating element(s) if it's allowed to accumulate.
So here are the steps to Flushing Your HW Heater
1) Shut off the Hot Water Heater
Electric: You need to turn the electricity off to the HW Heater. This is very important! Because if the electric heating element turns on and it isn’t immersed in water, it will burn out, this will lead to having to have it replaced or to the replacement of the entire HW Heater.
Gas: You need turn the temperature control to OFF or Pilot. Then close the shutoff valve on the gas line.
CAUTION: Do not proceed any further if you do not know how to relight the gas pilot! We strongly suggest you have a gas professional visit your home ONCE to instruct you on the proper procedure for relighting your pilot. Not only is this valuable information for you to have for tank flushing, but at any time that the pilot may mysteriously extinguish.
2) Turn off the Cold water supply to the tank. If you’re not sure which valve is the Cold, then feel the water pipes past the shutoff valves. The one that is warm or insulated is the Hot water pipe.
3) Attach a garden hose to the drain spigot / faucet. Then run the hose to
convenient drain location. A floor drain or sump pump hole is ideal for this, or you have the hose outside to a spot away from the house. (Note: The hose needs to be of good quality. A rubber hose is preferable over a vinyl hose, since vinyl can become very soft when hot water runs through it, which increases the risk of getting burned.)
4) Open up the Hot water side of any faucet (This relieves the pressure inside the HW tank.). Then open the valve on the tank’s drain faucet and allow the tank to empty.
5) When the tank is empty, turn off the drain valve and turn on the cold water. The force of the cold water entering the tank will loosen more sediment from the bottom of the tank. After the tank partially fills (5 – 10 minutes), drain the tank again.
6) If at any point turning Step 4 or 5, the drain valve becomes clogged, turn on the cold water supply to the tank and allow the water pressure to ‘blast’ the clog clear.
7) If you are still getting large amounts of sediment, then repeat Step 5 until the water coming from the tank is running clear.
8) If the drain water is running clear, you’re done Flushing the HW tank. Then shutoff the drain valve and turn on the cold water supply. Allow the tank to fill before you turn on the electric or gas. Once you hear the HW heater start up, then you’re DONE!
How frequently should you drain your tank?
This depends on the source and purity of your water supply. Some pros recommend doing this annually, some every few years and still others think this isn’t necessary. I recommend that you flush your tank annually, even if it’s a partial drain to clear the sediment from the bottom of your tank. Just remember that with an electric Hot Water Heater, you need to shut the power off. Because even a partial drain can expose the top heating element, which can damage it!
Next time we'll look at Weather Striping, which helps reduce Drafts. Until then have a wonderful week.
We spent a wonderful day with family. Turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes and football. I love being reminded to grateful for everything I have in my life.
Last time, I posted my 'Winter Check List'. This week, let’s look closer at Flushing Your Hot Water Heater. As I mentioned last time, this appliance is often ignored until something goes wrong. The way a HW Heater works is simple. Cold water enters the tank and is heated and then exits the tank. The incoming water contains sediment, which is simply any solid material that isn’t dissolved in the water. Sediment can be sand or other grit. This sediment (depending on the size) will settle to the bottom of the tank or come out the faucet.
Anyway, small accumulations of sediment are not a serious problem. However, through neglect the depth of the sediment can start: 1) to interfere with the function of the drain valve, 2) increase the amount of dissolved minerals in the hot water, and 3) even affect the efficiency of the heating element(s) if it's allowed to accumulate.
So here are the steps to Flushing Your HW Heater
1) Shut off the Hot Water Heater
Electric: You need to turn the electricity off to the HW Heater. This is very important! Because if the electric heating element turns on and it isn’t immersed in water, it will burn out, this will lead to having to have it replaced or to the replacement of the entire HW Heater.
Gas: You need turn the temperature control to OFF or Pilot. Then close the shutoff valve on the gas line.
CAUTION: Do not proceed any further if you do not know how to relight the gas pilot! We strongly suggest you have a gas professional visit your home ONCE to instruct you on the proper procedure for relighting your pilot. Not only is this valuable information for you to have for tank flushing, but at any time that the pilot may mysteriously extinguish.
2) Turn off the Cold water supply to the tank. If you’re not sure which valve is the Cold, then feel the water pipes past the shutoff valves. The one that is warm or insulated is the Hot water pipe.
3) Attach a garden hose to the drain spigot / faucet. Then run the hose to
convenient drain location. A floor drain or sump pump hole is ideal for this, or you have the hose outside to a spot away from the house. (Note: The hose needs to be of good quality. A rubber hose is preferable over a vinyl hose, since vinyl can become very soft when hot water runs through it, which increases the risk of getting burned.)
4) Open up the Hot water side of any faucet (This relieves the pressure inside the HW tank.). Then open the valve on the tank’s drain faucet and allow the tank to empty.
5) When the tank is empty, turn off the drain valve and turn on the cold water. The force of the cold water entering the tank will loosen more sediment from the bottom of the tank. After the tank partially fills (5 – 10 minutes), drain the tank again.
6) If at any point turning Step 4 or 5, the drain valve becomes clogged, turn on the cold water supply to the tank and allow the water pressure to ‘blast’ the clog clear.
7) If you are still getting large amounts of sediment, then repeat Step 5 until the water coming from the tank is running clear.
8) If the drain water is running clear, you’re done Flushing the HW tank. Then shutoff the drain valve and turn on the cold water supply. Allow the tank to fill before you turn on the electric or gas. Once you hear the HW heater start up, then you’re DONE!
How frequently should you drain your tank?
This depends on the source and purity of your water supply. Some pros recommend doing this annually, some every few years and still others think this isn’t necessary. I recommend that you flush your tank annually, even if it’s a partial drain to clear the sediment from the bottom of your tank. Just remember that with an electric Hot Water Heater, you need to shut the power off. Because even a partial drain can expose the top heating element, which can damage it!
Next time we'll look at Weather Striping, which helps reduce Drafts. Until then have a wonderful week.
Monday, November 16, 2009
Green Christmas Present for Your Home
Now that Summer is gone and Fall is quickly turning into Winter. We are all getting ready for the Holidays.
So with the Holidays being just around the corner, I’m working on my ‘Winter Check List’. Now many would think that this list would include hanging Christmas lights, looking for the decorations, etc. No, my list is concerned with preparing my home for the harsh Winter weather that comes every year. So my list serves two purposes. The first is to insure that the major appliances are in good working order. The second is to make sure my home is as Energy Efficient and therefore as Environmentally-Friendly as possible. So...
· It’s time to have the furnace checked by a certified Heating Contractor.
· The Hot Water Heater needs to be flushed out, which cleans out the mineral deposits.
· And to check the Weather-stripping and weather-proofing around the house.
So starting at the bottom, Weather-proofing means checking the blanket that your house wears. Our homes are built with an insulating blanket that is designed to prevent the exchange of air from outside to inside. So you’re looking for areas where this blanket has been compromised. So basically you’re checking for Drafts. And the easiest way I’ve found to check for drafts around interior openings is by using incense or a candle, where the flickering flame or incense smoke shows you where the drafts are. Once these areas are located, and then it's time to repair or replace the damaged or missing weather-stripping.
Now why is the Hot Water Heater on my list? This appliance is heavily used and generally ignored, until there is a problem. Did you know that the main reason this appliance fails is because of the build-up of mineral deposits in the tank itself. This causes the heater element to work harder than it has to, therefore shorten its life span.
So for me it just makes sense to group the Furnish and the Hot Water Heater together. So if you aren’t comfortable with flushing out the Hot Water Heater, than the Heating Contractor can service both appliances at the same time. (Oh! By the way this will save you some $$$, because there is only one service call, too)
How does all this save the Environment? My ‘Winter Check list’ is designed to reduce ‘Greenhouse Gases’. The Hot water Heater produces CO2 gases year-round and the Furnace during the winter months. These appliances work more efficiently (and cost less too run) if they are tuned-up on a regular basis.
In the Hot Water Heater, the heating element(s) need to be heating the water in the tank and not trying to heat the water through a layer of mineral deposits. This would be like you trying to boil a kettle of water for tea and lifting the kettle off the burner. It’ll take much looonger to boil the water. Essentially, this is what is happening inside the hot water tank. Also, there is another bonus to flushing out the Hot Water Heater … more Hot Water!!!
So on to the Furnace, as the nights start getting colder we’ll turn up the thermostat. Around this time, we’ll clean or change the air filter(s) and that’s usually all. There are many parts and systems to a Furnace. Any one of these could be malfunctioning and we would never know it, until the Furnace stops working. A Heating Contractor will inspect each component and insure that each system is functioning properly. He/she will inform you if something needs attention and also give you some pointers that will keep your Furnace running efficiently.
In review, my ‘Winter Check List’ goes through and checks to see how Environmentally-Friendly the house is. I’m checking to see how the weather-proofing is. So that the cold air is staying outside and the warm air inside. I’m going to clean out the Hot Water Heater, so that it’s only heating the water and running as efficiently as possible. And I’m having the Furnace inspected by a qualified professional to keep it functioning at peak capacity.
Here's to having a Greener Holiday season.
So with the Holidays being just around the corner, I’m working on my ‘Winter Check List’. Now many would think that this list would include hanging Christmas lights, looking for the decorations, etc. No, my list is concerned with preparing my home for the harsh Winter weather that comes every year. So my list serves two purposes. The first is to insure that the major appliances are in good working order. The second is to make sure my home is as Energy Efficient and therefore as Environmentally-Friendly as possible. So...
· It’s time to have the furnace checked by a certified Heating Contractor.
· The Hot Water Heater needs to be flushed out, which cleans out the mineral deposits.
· And to check the Weather-stripping and weather-proofing around the house.
So starting at the bottom, Weather-proofing means checking the blanket that your house wears. Our homes are built with an insulating blanket that is designed to prevent the exchange of air from outside to inside. So you’re looking for areas where this blanket has been compromised. So basically you’re checking for Drafts. And the easiest way I’ve found to check for drafts around interior openings is by using incense or a candle, where the flickering flame or incense smoke shows you where the drafts are. Once these areas are located, and then it's time to repair or replace the damaged or missing weather-stripping.
Now why is the Hot Water Heater on my list? This appliance is heavily used and generally ignored, until there is a problem. Did you know that the main reason this appliance fails is because of the build-up of mineral deposits in the tank itself. This causes the heater element to work harder than it has to, therefore shorten its life span.
So for me it just makes sense to group the Furnish and the Hot Water Heater together. So if you aren’t comfortable with flushing out the Hot Water Heater, than the Heating Contractor can service both appliances at the same time. (Oh! By the way this will save you some $$$, because there is only one service call, too)
How does all this save the Environment? My ‘Winter Check list’ is designed to reduce ‘Greenhouse Gases’. The Hot water Heater produces CO2 gases year-round and the Furnace during the winter months. These appliances work more efficiently (and cost less too run) if they are tuned-up on a regular basis.
In the Hot Water Heater, the heating element(s) need to be heating the water in the tank and not trying to heat the water through a layer of mineral deposits. This would be like you trying to boil a kettle of water for tea and lifting the kettle off the burner. It’ll take much looonger to boil the water. Essentially, this is what is happening inside the hot water tank. Also, there is another bonus to flushing out the Hot Water Heater … more Hot Water!!!
So on to the Furnace, as the nights start getting colder we’ll turn up the thermostat. Around this time, we’ll clean or change the air filter(s) and that’s usually all. There are many parts and systems to a Furnace. Any one of these could be malfunctioning and we would never know it, until the Furnace stops working. A Heating Contractor will inspect each component and insure that each system is functioning properly. He/she will inform you if something needs attention and also give you some pointers that will keep your Furnace running efficiently.
In review, my ‘Winter Check List’ goes through and checks to see how Environmentally-Friendly the house is. I’m checking to see how the weather-proofing is. So that the cold air is staying outside and the warm air inside. I’m going to clean out the Hot Water Heater, so that it’s only heating the water and running as efficiently as possible. And I’m having the Furnace inspected by a qualified professional to keep it functioning at peak capacity.
Here's to having a Greener Holiday season.
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